TIPS AND IDEAS FOR GARDENING
We are setting up a site for those of you interested in trying different methods of gardening, growing organically, insect and disease control and anything else that can come up in the garden. Any ideas you would like to share are welcome.
· Test your soil.
· Always avoid getting leaves wet during irrigation.
· Plants need about 1 inch of water a week; about 1 gallon per week.
· Always water plants well when transplanting, warm water is best.
· Mulching is required to deter weeds, warm soil, and hold moisture. It also prevents water splash up which can cause disease such as early blight, powdery mildew, and many other diseases.
· Rotating crops every two to three years helps prevent disease.
· Soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees, to plant cold sensitive crops & to mulch.
· Most vegetables need 1 inch of water a week.
When setting out tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant, it is advisable to surround the stem with a cardboard or paper collar to avoid cut worm damage.
BASIL: Pinch off buds to promote bushiness and leaf production. Do not over fertilize.
BEANS: Beans are sensitive to an excess of potash in soil.
BEANS, POLE: Plant in the north side so they do not shade other plants.
CUCUMBERS: Always use lukewarm water on plants. Avoid water on leaves.
EGGPLANT: When planting, water plant hole thoroughly and mulch to increase soil temperature.
LETTUCE: Avoid excess N & P to prevent tip burn.
PEPPERS: After the first week of transplant, side dress with high-nitrogen fertilizer. See Horticulture Magazine 2011 Feb/Mar issue about Peppers (available @ the Foster Libraries)
SQUASH: (Winter Squash and Pumpkins) Reduce irrigation when fruits are near maturity.
TOMATOES: Prune plants so that there are no leaves about 12" above the ground. This discourages insects from climbing up the plants and allows air to circulate through the vines. (Circulating air discourages mildews, leaf blights, and fungal problems that can develop quickly on tomatoes during humid weather.) pH 6.0-6.8 (slightly acidic)
FALL: Till soil 6”- 8” deep working in organic matter and lime if necessary.
SPRING: Till soil 6”-8” deep.
To Plant:
Dig a hole that is 6 inches to a foot deeper than the plant ball. Place some organic fertilizer (see instructions on box for amount) or 1 cup of bone meal and 2-3 shovelfuls of compost (depending on the size hole) in the hole. Mix with dirt & cover with 2-3” of soil. Fill hole with water and make sure plants are watered before you plant them. When water has seeped into the ground it is time to plant.
Wrap the plant in some newspapers or you can make a collar of newspaper or cardboard to put around the tomato stem. This will prevent cutworms from killing the plant.
Plant about 75 percent of the plant in the ground. This will give a good root system to the plant.
They are heavy feeders. Fertilize through the season. You can side dress the plants with bone and blood meal. You can also feed with fish emulsion every 2 weeks. See label on bottle for specific directions. Stay away from a lot of nitrogen. This will produce a lot of leaves, but not a lot of fruit.
TOMATOES (General directions for Planting Tomatoes):
· Plant several varieties rather than all of one type. This ensures a steady harvest.
· Place tomato plants in a site receiving full sun (7 hours or more daily).
· Tomatoes need a growing medium rich in organic matter.
· Bury tomato plants deeper than they come in the pot. Tomatoes are able to develop roots all along their stems. Bury about 75% of the plant. A new transplant needs to focus on root production. You can either dig a deeper hole or simply dig a shallow tunnel and lay the plant sideways. It will straighten up and grow toward the sun. Be careful not to drive your pole or cage into the stem.
· If a plant is larger than a foot, bury the plant 3-5 inches in a deep hole so that the thicker stem is not broken.
· Give each plant about 1 gallon of warm water (about 80 degrees within ten minutes of transplanting to avoid transplant shock.
· Space tomato plants 18 to 24 inches apart; plant 36 inches apart if plants are allowed to bush out hugely on the ground. Planting closer together in cages allows the plants to shade each other's fruit, helping prevent burn and allowing a sweeter flavor. Consider using a tomato cage or a stake to support the tomato.
· Don't forget to leave yourself enough space to get in between the plants to water, weed, and harvest. Those cute, little seedlings may not remain that way for long.
· Once the tomato plants are about 2- 3' tall, remove the leaves from the bottom 6 -12 inches of stem. These are usually the first leaves to develop fungus problems. They get the least amount of sun and soil-borne pathogens can be unintentionally splashed up onto them.
· Pinch and remove suckers that develop in the crotch joint of two branches. They won’t bear fruit and will take energy away from the rest of the plant. But go easy on pruning the rest of the plant. It’s the leaves that are photosynthesizing and creating the sugars that give flavor to your tomatoes.
· Water deeply and regularly. Irregular watering (missing a week and trying to make up for it) leads to blossom end rot and cracking.
· The tomato plant should be watered weekly. Water each plant with a 1 gallon of water each time. It's okay in hot or dry weather to water even more frequently with larger volumes.
· Wait a week or two after transplanting and then place a mulch of straw, dried grass, or pine needles to control weeds and keep the soil moist during dry weather. The mulch should be about an inch thick and surround at least a circle 12 inches in diameter around the stem. Pine needles are especially good for helping raise the acidity of the soil.
WATERMELON: Provide ample water during growing period. Reduce watering during fruit maturation to enhance sweetness.
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